The 2023 from Château de Pressac offers threads of sweet red cherry and redcurrant swirled with leather, tobacco, vanilla and toast. And there is a touch of cherry ripple ice cream here, with a black pepper lift. This is immediately convincing on the palate, feeling dark and more concentrated than the nose suggested, with dark summer fruits partnered with violets, dark chocolate and toast, supported by a very confidently extracted bed of tannins, which are firm but ripe and tightly knit together. This is a very smart example of the St Emilion appellation, with the sinewy and rather lithe construct that defines the vintage, and the freshness too, but a more present tannic grip than many. One for the cellar.